A large table of plastic pipes
This is not the first time I've been I make PVC pipes. And I decided to share a new creation. As you can see from the name of the master class, I will tell you how to make a large table out of a hollow door and plastic pipes. This table can be used as you like: as a workbench, a desk, a counter in the store and even as a table for a family meal. It all depends on your goal. We needed a dozen of such tables, and we use them as desks. Each table cost about 75 bucks. The table fits perfectly into the decor and looks quite decent. The table top is perfectly smooth and can be repainted in any color. And its biggest advantage is its huge size, 90 cm wide and 200 cm long. A few notes about this project: Hollow tabletop against full-bodied:I stopped at the first option, as it is more economical, and we do not need too strong tables. If you are going to use the table as a workbench, then a full-bodied door is better for the tabletop. It will cost more and be harder (in fact, this is good). And the base will remain quite suitable for such an option. About fittings:you will need a furniture set of fittings with plugs, fasteners for the table top and spatial crosses. You can reduce the cost of the table by replacing the connecting elements with ordinary plumbing, but then it will not look so good. About pipes:for this project, I stopped the choice of pipes that are used as water supply. But if we do something similar in the future, we will probably choose furniture options that are tidier, stronger and more durable.Tools: You will need a tool for cutting pipes. This may be a hacksaw, special scissors or miter saw. How do you prefer. Electric drill or screwdriver for connecting fasteners to the lower part of the table top. You will need at least fifteen short screws with dowels for drywall. Dowels may not be necessary, but sometimes you have to use them to more securely mount the table top. Glue for plastic pipes, with which you can fix all the connections. As a result, you should get a non-separable table. Alternatively, screws can be screwed in at the junction of the fitting with a pipe.As I said above, I used the furniture version of plastic fittings. Since I basically needed a set of spatial crosses, fastening couplings and plugs. All other elements can be from the category of plumbing. Here is a list of what,what I used:In order to make it easier to understand what is attached, I made a drawing. Now let's get started. Build: side 1. The first thing to do is assemble the sides of the table with the help of various connecting elements, as shown in the figure. Fittings with a black outline, and pipe lengths are highlighted in red. This is what the first or left side of the table will look like. I recommend to first assemble it without gluing, then disassemble and apply glue to the fitting elements. As you probably guess, after gluing the parts it will be impossible to detach from each other. Apply the glue to the internal parts of the fitting, where the pipe rests against it. Make sure that the pipe enters the hole at the right angle, and only then use force to shrink it completely. NOTES: Most of the instructions say that the adhesive is applied to the inside surface of the fitting, and at the end of the pipe, however, I found it unnecessary. If you do not want to use glue (as it is harmful when used indoors), you can use screws by screwing them in the place where the fitting overlaps the pipe. I tried to make sure that the factory marking on the pipes was directed to the rear Part of the table (where space crosses). So they will not be evident, and later they will not need to be removed with acetone. The photo shows that in one case I did not see this moment. Learn from my mistakes. Build: side 2.The next stage of assembly is similar to the first, only now you need to make the second (right) side of the table, a mirror copy of the left side.Therefore, the spatial cross should look in the opposite direction.Now it's time to collect the back of the table, which is quite simple. For this stage you will need fasteners, plugs and two crosses. Connect the crossings on the sides with 50 cm (30 ") pipes, as shown in the figure. When you assemble and glue the central post, you need to do this horizontally on the floor so that all the elements are in the same plane. Assembling the table: combining partsNow it is time to assemble everything related to plastic into one design. Connect the side rear pipes with the corresponding fitting elements of the right and left sides, as shown on the image. And again, I recommend that you first do everything without glue to make sure everything fits smoothly. After you see that the elements can be glued together,disassemble the parts and apply glue to the inner parts of the spatial crossings of the first side and insert the back pipes into them. While the glue has not dried, check that the parts are fastened evenly. Press the parts for 30 seconds. Next, apply glue to the corresponding elements of the second side and similarly connect it to the back. Press down again for 30 seconds. Now your base for the table is ready. And the table is almost ready.The problem with hollow doors:The hollow door consists of a frame and internal edges that are between sheets for extra strength. All voids are filled with cardboard, foam, or remain empty. As it is difficult to determine where these edges are, we carry out the fastening of the tabletop at random. If you fall into the void, use a drywall plug. How the whole process takes place:Put the hollow door on the floor, down side, which should be the top of the tabletop.Turn the PVC pipe structure over and place it on the door surface so that the fasteners are on the door. Align the plastic frame so that it is centered, and the fasteners must be equally spaced from the edges of the table top. Then use a pencil to mark where the screws should be screwed. Remove the plastic construction from the counter to the side. Using a drill or a screwdriver, screw the screws into the marked places. If they come in easily, it means you have fallen into an empty space. Remove the screw and insert the plug. If the screw enters the door with effort, it means that you have fallen into a wooden frame or rib element. Such a fastening will be reliable in itself and no dowels are needed. After you have determined in which places the dowels are needed and in which you do not, unscrew all the screws and place the plastic base again on the tabletop to make sure that all the holes converge with the holes of the mounting sleeves. NOTE: All this can be avoided by using a solid door as the table top. In my case, the hollow door was used only for the purpose of saving. Finally, connect the worktop to the base with screws. You now have a fully assembled table that stands upside down.Finally, you have a huge, strong, fully functional table. Now you can apply paint or other means on the table top. We decided to leave everything in its natural form, but water stains stand out strongly on a thin surface, so we recommend using water-repellent impregnation or paint. As in any other projects related to plastic pipes, table sizes can be easily changed depending on your needs. Doors come in smaller sizes, so pipes can be made shorter. You can also increase the height of the table by replacing elements of pipes 8 cm long with longer ones. I hope you enjoyed reading this workshop.
Table making tools
- 5 plugs with a diameter of 1-1 / 4 in.
- 5 fastening sleeves with a diameter of 1-1 / 4 in.
- 4 spatial crosses with a diameter of 1-1 / 4 inches.
- 4 tees with a diameter of 1-1 / 4 inches.
- 2 1-1 / 4-inch diameter crossings.
- 5 lengths of 8 cm.
- 10 lengths of 30 cm.
- 4 segments 50 cm long.
- 4 segments 50 cm long.
Table assembly: PARTY
Build: table top
Impregnating the table top
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